Fashion has moved from the set seasons of spring/summer and autumn/winter. Buying patterns, even within the larger retailers, has moved much closer to the seasons, with significantly more in-season and trans-seasonal buying.
You’d be forgiven for thinking that, with the name, the Resort Collections are all about beach holidays and sunny climes dressing….but you’d be wrong. Resort, as ElleUK put it, is ‘Fashion’s great In-Betweener, the season wedged betwixt Fall and Spring which has in recent years taken on a life force all of its own, to become the industry’s favourite collection’.
According to Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz, Resort is ‘about solutions’, as the in-between period from October to March is often quite problematic due to the changing weather or the fact that the shops are mostly filled with sparkly party numbers, rather than wearable yet trendworthy wardrobe additions. Resort gives designers an opportunity to reach a broader range of consumers and are created to take the wearer through cold and grey Autumn climes, into festive December and through to sunnier spring. That’s why the Resort Collections often feature wide ranging garments from swim and beachwear for those lucky enough to grab a winter break, to leather, furs and tailoring for those facing the weather at home.
Resort is also, in a way, an opportunity for designers to test new (or even their more radical) ideas before they incorporate them into their bigger spring/summer catwalk shows, beginning in September.
Surprisingly, Resort 2013 sees a number of designers on the same wavelength, interpreting several trends we are likely to see in the coming spring/summer season: scarf prints a la Givency, takes on the safari jacket, nods to the 70s, both bold and playful and sweet and whimsical florals, and stiff oversize T-shirt tops in luxury fabrics. There was also a definite whimsical undertone with playful fairytale details such as bunnies at Carolina Herrera, and ethereal butterflies from Nina Ricci by Peter Copping.
Scarf Prints at Givency…
Butterflies at Nini Ricci by Peter Copping…
Undeniably, boldness dominated Resort 2013 collections in the form of bold colours (Stella McCartney used rich pinks, golds, and greens in her woven floral jacquards against a crisp white background), lively prints, extreme silhouettes (loose fitting ‘Clown like’ dresses over baggy pants at Marc Jacobs), stripes and florals. There was also no shortage of sky-high hemlines with lots of designers such as Jason Wu, DKNY and Jill Stuart featuring rompers, mini skirts, and short suits.
Floral at Gucci
Floral at Stella McCartney
Shorts at DKNY and Jill Stuart
‘Clown’ Style at Marc Jacobs
Bold Colour at Stella McCartney